Choosing Your Signet Ring Metal

Originally a symbol of heraldry and social status, the signet ring has seamlessly transitioned into the realm of fashion-forward jewellery. Whether you're considering a signet ring for yourself, a cherished family member, or a friend, the pivotal step of choosing the suitable precious metal plays a crucial role in the decision-making process. Below, we'll explore the different options available to you when selecting your signet ring metal type. 

The different signet ring metal types.

What Metal Type Is a Signet Ring Traditionally Made From?

The earliest signs of the signet ring date back to 3500 BC and were initially formed from soft stone. The bronze age saw a shift to metal rings, paving the way for the signet ring to take on its current-day appearance, often crafted from precious metals such as gold, silver or bronze. 

In the Middle Ages, royalty and the higher ranks of society wore gold signet rings often embellished with precious gems. This trend continued until the discovery of Platinum in Russia in 1822, a highly durable and precious metal that, before long, was used as an alternative metal choice to gold. 

Although trends have shifted over time, in the 21st century, opting for 18ct yellow gold remains the traditional metal choice for a signet ring. 


Signet Ring Metal Types 

The four most commonly used precious metals for signet rings are sterling silver, yellow gold, white gold and Platinum. When it comes to choosing a signet ring metal type, your personal style and budget will play a crucial role. Below, we'll take a closer look at each metal type and the pros and cons of each choice. 

Sterling Silver 

Fine silver is 99.9% pure silver and is too soft to produce jewellery, so silver is mixed (also known as alloyed) with other metals to increase its strength and durability. The best-known alloy is sterling, 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% copper. In England, sterling silver is recognisable by its unique hallmark depicting a lion.

The advantages and disadvantages of selecting sterling silver as your signet ring metal choice include: 

Advantages  

  •  Sterling silver signet rings have a brilliant and alluring white hue. 

  • It is inexpensive in comparison to Gold and Platinum. 

  • Silver is a high-quality alternative to costume jewellery (Made of cheap base metal and then plated with a thin layer of the precious metal) that will chip and fade over time. Investing in sterling silver can offer lasting value and quality at a reasonable price.

  • Sterling silver has hypoallergenic properties.

Disadvantages 

  • Sterling silver tarnishes when exposed to salty air, chlorine, sulphur, humidity, perspiration, cosmetics, household bleach and other strong chemicals.

  • The main drawback of sterling silver signet rings is their softness. Silver jewellery tends to bend or mark under repetitive daily wear. If you lead an active lifestyle, be sure to opt for a signet ring with a thick band for durability. 


Yellow Gold 

Yellow gold has been used to create jewellery for millennia, with the earliest examples of gold signet rings dating back to ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt around 4000 BCE.

Due to its softness, pure gold (24ct) is alloyed with other metals to alter its hardness, durability and appearance.  

Examples of common alloys for yellow gold include:

  • 18K Yellow Gold - 75% gold, 12.5% copper, 12.5% silver

  • 9K Yellow Gold - 37.5% gold, 42.5% silver and 20% copper

Yellow gold is the timeless and classic option for signet rings. However, when choosing this metal, it is essential to consider its advantages and disadvantages.  

Advantages   

  • Available in different carat weights to suit your budget, with 9ct being the most affordable and 18ct being the dearest.  

  • Gold is the most traditional metal choice for signet rings. 

  • Gold is known to regulate body temperature naturally, making it a popular option for those who suffer from chills, hot flashes and other temperature-related issues. 

Disadvantages  

  • Yellow gold is one of the most expensive types of precious metals. 

  • It can be harder to match colour variations of yellow gold, making it more problematic when resizing your signet ring. 

  • Compared to other metals, yellow gold is more susceptible to dents and scratches. 


White Gold 

White gold has a shinier, more brilliant white appearance than silver and was initially developed to imitate Platinum (a naturally white metal). 

With its unique and contemporary aesthetic, white gold signet rings offer a modern twist on tradition. 

By combining yellow gold with white metal alloys such as palladium, nickel or silver, it is possible to create a stunning light grey-hued precious metal known as white gold.

To achieve its sought-after lustrous sheen, white gold undergoes a coating with a precious metal called rhodium, which belongs to the same metal family as Platinum.

Examples of common alloys for white gold include:

  • 18K white gold - 75% yellow gold, 25% mixture of palladium, nickel silver 

  • 9K white gold - 37.5% yellow gold, 62.5% mixture of palladium, nickel silver 

Pros and cons of choosing white gold to have your signet ring crafted from include: 

Advantages 

  • White gold is impervious to rust, tarnish, and corrosion.

  • White gold has a similar aesthetic to Platinum, just without the price tag. 

  • In contrast to Platinum, white gold exhibits remarkable malleability, allowing for the effortless crafting of intricate designs.

Disadvantages  

  • Over time, the dazzling lustre of your white gold signet will dull and require rhodium plating again to restore its original brilliance.

  • People with metal allergies should be aware that white gold may not be the optimal choice, as its alloy contains traces of nickel.


Platinum

Platinum stands out as an exceptionally prized, dense, and radiant silver-white metal that gained widespread popularity globally during the 19th century. In recent times, platinum signet rings have emerged as a favoured choice, valued for their durability and investment potential. But what are the advantages and disadvantages of opting for this precious metal?

Advantages  

  • Platinum is the optimal choice of metal for jewellery you plan to wear regularly, as it provides unparalleled durability and strength.

  • Platinum is hypoallergenic, making it a perfect option for those with sensitive skin. 

  • Unlike white gold, Platinum does not require rhodium plating to maintain its whiteness. 

Disadvantages  

  • Platinum is a rare metal, and its occurrence in the Earth's crust is lower than that of gold and silver. This rarity contributes to its higher market value.

 
 

Conclusion 

While the conventional choice of 18ct yellow gold signet ring persists as the timeless option, history shows signet ring trends have evolved, and the ultimate decision in choosing your signet ring metal type comes down to your personal style and budget. 

We've endeavoured to address all the essential factors you should take into account when selecting the optimal metal type for your signet ring. However, if you still need assistance in making a decision or have any other queries, feel free to reach out to one of the team. 

Shop our Signet Ring Collection

Handcrafted beneath our showroom floor and available in various metal types, face shapes, and sizes, all our signet rings come with the option to be personalised in-house by our skilled jewellery engravers and paired with complimentary postage and resizing to provide peace of mind when ordering online. Alternatively, you're more than welcome to visit our Hatton Garden jewellery shop in person to view our collection of signet rings.  

Huxley Mann

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If you're interested in discussing a project, drop me an email at hello@studiohuxley.co.uk, or alternativly book a discovery call.

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