The Ultimate Guide to Signet Rings: History, Styles, Metals & Personalisation
Signet rings have a rich history that spans thousands of years—a symbol of power, prestige, and personal identity. From ancient civilisations to modern times, these rings have evolved in style and significance, becoming cherished heirlooms and fashionable accessories. In this ultimate guide to Signet Rings, we will explore their history, the various face shapes, metal types, and the different engraving techniques and options available.
The Fascinating History of Signet Rings
The signet ring's initial concept begins with the ancient empire of Mesopotamia. The Mesopotamians created stone cylinder seals with carved designs on their curved surface. The seals were rolled along the wet clay, making an impression of the design on the surface that acted as the owner's identifying mark, somewhat like the modern signature.
Example of a Mesopotamian Cylinder Seal. Photo credit: History on the Net
The earliest known signet rings date back to ancient Egypt, around 3500 BC. These rings were often made of gold and engraved with hieroglyphs or symbols representing the owner's name or title. Egyptian pharaohs and nobles used signet rings to seal documents and mark ownership.
An Egyptian signet ring with hieroglyph, a sign of the god Ptah. Photo credit: The History Press
By the time the Greeks and Romans made their grand debut in ancient civilisation history, Signet rings were used by the elite to stamp wax seals on documents and were often worn by soldiers to identify those fallen on the battlefield.
By the medieval period, the signet ring had spread throughout Europe, primarily used by nobility and clergy to authenticate documents. The rings often featured heraldic symbols, family crests, or monograms.
In the 18th century, signet rings saw a resurgence in popularity, particularly in England during the Victorian era, with the cushion signet ring taking centre stage. They were often used as family heirlooms and passed down through generations.
Today, the signet ring has a deep historical significance, evolving from a practical tool for authentication to a symbol of personal identity and status. Its lasting legacy continues to influence jewellery design and individual expression in contemporary society. Although trends have shifted over time, in the 21st century, opting for a 18ct yellow gold signet ring remains the traditional choice.
What Are the Different Signet Ring Shapes?
Signet rings come in a variety of different styles, each with its own distinct aesthetic and historical significance. Here are some of the most common face shapes:
Oxford Oval: Throughout history, the Signet ring has traditionally featured an oval-shaped face, which has contributed to its ongoing popularity.
Round: the round-shaped face provides a symmetrical and balanced canvas, ideal for personalising with a monogram engraving.
Sheild: The design combines the protective symbolism of a shield with the traditional style of a signet ring
Cushion: a soft, cushion-shaped face with rounded corners resembling a cushion or pillow, a particular favourite during the Victorian era.
Square: the ideal balance between tradition and modernity, the square-shaped face provides a unique and contemporary aesthetic.
Heart: Combining the traditional elegance of a signet ring with the romantic symbolism of a heart.
It's worth taking into consideration what you're looking to personalise your signet ring with and the level of detailing in your design, whether it be a symbol, monogram, coat of arms, crest or your design, which may also influence your choice. Explore the different signet ring styles in more depth.
The Different Signet Ring Metal Types
The four most common precious metals, signet rings, are generally produced in include sterling silver, yellow gold, white gold, and platinum. Your style and budget are key factors in choosing the suitable metal type for your ring. Read on to explore the pros and cons.
Sterling Silver
Sterling silver signet rings have a brilliant white hue and offer lasting value and quality, unlike costume jewellery, which generally tends to chip and fade.
Sterling silver is hypoallergenic but tarnishes when exposed to salty air, chlorine, sulfur, humidity, perspiration, cosmetics, bleach, and other chemicals.
Its softness makes it prone to bending and marking, so opting for a signet with a thick band is recommended for durability, especially if you lead an active lifestyle.
Yellow Gold
Yellow gold has been used in jewellery-making for thousands of years.
Pure gold (24K) is generally too soft for making jewellery, so it is often alloyed with other metals to enhance its hardness, durability, and appearance. Common alloys include 18K gold (75% gold) and 9K gold (37.5% gold).
Yellow gold is available in various carat weights to suit different budgets, with 9ct yellow gold being the most affordable option. However, 18ct yellow gold is the most traditional choice for signet rings. Despite its popularity, yellow gold is relatively expensive compared to other metals, can be challenging to resize due to the colour variations of gold, and is more susceptible to dents and scratches.
White Gold
White gold has a shinier, more brilliant appearance than silver and was developed to mimic platinum. It offers a modern take on traditional signet rings by blending yellow gold with metals like palladium, nickel, or silver to create a light grey-hued metal. White gold is coated with rhodium, a member of the platinum metal family, to achieve its lustrous sheen.
Common alloys include 18ct white gold (75% yellow gold, 25% palladium, nickel, silver) and 9ct white gold (37.5% yellow gold, 62.5% palladium, nickel, silver). Advantages include resistance to rust, tarnish, and corrosion, a platinum-like aesthetic at a lower cost, and malleability for intricate designs. However, regular rhodium plating is needed to maintain its brilliance over time, and those with nickel allergies should consider alternatives.
Platinum
Although utilised by pre-Columbian Indians, Platinum did not reach Europe until Antonio de Ulloa discovered it in South America in 1735. This rare silver-white metal is renowned for its density and radiant appearance, gaining global popularity within the jewellery industry during the late 18th century.
Today, platinum signet rings are increasingly favoured for their durability and investment potential.
However, Platinum is a rare metal type that is less abundant in the Earth's crust compared to gold and silver, which contributes significantly to its higher market value.
Which Finger Do You Wear a Signet Ring On?
Signet rings are traditionally worn facing inwards (Originally so your enemy couldn't read or copy your coat of arms) and placed on the little finger of the non-dominant hand.
Winston Churchill, who was famously left-handed, wore his signet ring on the pinkie finger on his right hand.
Historically, women wore their signet ring on their left hand to signify they were married, whereas wearing it on their right hand indicated they were single.
Ultimately, the choice of how to wear a signet ring should be based on personal preference, style and comfort, irrespective of tradition.
Laser Engraving VS. Hand Engraving
When it comes to engraving your signet ring, you have two options: either hand or laser engraving.
Laser engraving is highly effective for creating precise and detailed geometric designs, while hand engraving produces a more illustrative, organic finish. However, mastering hand engraving takes years due to its intricate skill requirements. Therefore, having your signet ring hand engraved is generally more expensive and requires additional time to complete compared to laser engraving.
Find out more about the pros and cons of each of these jewellery engraving techniques.
What Should You Engrave on Your Signet Ring?
Traditionally, a signet ring is engraved with the wearer's family coat of arms or crest (the emblem above the coat of arms). Another popular engraving option is to personalise your signet ring with a monogram of your initials.
However, not everyone has a family coat of arms or a clear understanding or connection to their ancestry. Additionally, fewer people are concerned with the symbols of family heritage.
When it comes to deciding what to engrave on your signet ring, your choice of engraving should reflect your personality, values, and style. Alternative engraving ideas for signet rings include coordinates, symbols, zodiac signs, inspirational quotes, or a fingerprint; the possibilities are endless.
Explore a range of signet ring engraving ideas.
Purchasing the Ideal Signet Ring
Ultimately, how you wear and personalise your signet ring should reflect your style and comfort. As trends evolve and traditions adapt, the signet ring remains a timeless symbol of identity and heritage. Thank you for reading our ultimate guide to signet rings.
Handcrafted beneath our showroom floor in London's historic jewellery district, Hatton Garden, our signet rings are available in various metal types, face shapes, and sizes. Additionally, all signet rings can be personalised in-house by our fantastic team of jewellery engravers.
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